Thick, Coarse Hair: Haircuts That Keep the Bulk in Check

Thick or coarse: two quick tests and why the sides puff out

Thick and coarse describe two different things. Thick hair means density: many hairs on each square centimetre of scalp. Coarse hair means each strand has a large diameter, two or three times that of a fine hair. Many men have both, and that combination is the hardest to keep in shape. Two quick tests tell you which you have. Roll a single hair between your thumb and finger: if you feel it clearly, like a thread, it's coarse; if you barely feel it, it's fine. Then part your hair in the middle under a bright light: if you can hardly see the scalp, your hair is dense; a clear line of pale skin means medium or low density. Coarse, dense hair grows outwards from the head and refuses to lie flat. Week by week the sides push out over the ears and the top stands up, so a cut that looked right on the first day turns into a triangle or a helmet within three weeks. The hair is heavy and holds water, so it takes a long time to dry, and cowlicks push harder against any direction you try to give it. Long sides cut to one length make all of this worse, since every extra centimetre adds width to your head. The fix is a cut that removes bulk where the hair puffs out, keeps length where it gives shape and follows the direction your hair grows, so you stop fighting it every morning.

Short sides, a textured top and thinning done with care

Start with the sides. Short clipper sides, from a taper to a mid fade, remove the part of the hair that pushes out over the ears, and on dense hair they stay neat longer than scissor-cut sides. On top, leave enough length to carry a shape and ask for texture. The barber cuts into the ends with the scissor points or slides the open blades along the strands, which breaks up the solid mass and lets the hair sit closer to the head. A textured crop, a short quiff or a side part all work on thick hair, because its weight helps it hold the shape. Thinning scissors need care. Used near the roots, they leave a layer of short hairs that stand up and push the longer ones outwards, and the hair ends up bigger than before. A careful barber thins the middle and the ends of the strands and checks the cut again once the hair is dry, since coarse hair springs up as it dries. Avoid a heavy blunt fringe and one-length bowl shapes, which turn thick hair into a helmet. Ask about the crown as well: dense hair builds a ridge there, and a little texturising at that spot keeps the back of the head round. If you have a strong cowlick at the crown or the hairline, mention it at the start: a few extra millimetres left there let the hair lie flat. Bring a photo of your hair on its best day after a cut, so the barber sees which shape and length your hair carries well.

Drying, heavier products and a cut every three to four weeks

Blot thick hair with a towel and don't rub it, since rubbing roughens coarse strands and adds frizz. Comb it through with a wide-tooth comb while it's wet, because a fine comb snags and breaks coarse strands. Then dry the roots with a hairdryer on medium heat in the direction you want the hair to sit, with the nozzle pointing down the strands, and finish with a burst of cool air to set the shape. Left to dry on its own, dense hair can stay damp for an hour or more and sets in whatever direction it falls. Use a conditioner after every wash: it softens coarse hair and makes it easier to direct. Choose heavier styling products. Light sprays and mousses can't hold the weight, so use a strong water-based pomade for a neat, shiny finish or a clay or paste for a matte, textured one. Start with a pea-sized amount, warm it between your palms and work it in from the back, adding more only if the hair won't hold. Put clay and paste on dry hair, since water weakens their hold. Thick hair loses its shape sooner than fine hair, so plan a cut every three to four weeks and keep the sides short. In summer, dense hair traps heat, and many men go a little shorter for the warm months. For the lowest-maintenance option, our machine haircut, with two guard lengths and a faded outline, keeps dense hair short and tidy without any styling.